Mauro Gasperi Fall Winter 2012 2013

Photo Credits: Gabriele Semeraro

An African Story. Edun Fall Winter 2012 2013

When we speak of globalism and solidarity, we begin to ask ourselves some questions.
What are the pros? What the cons? 
Usually are more the cons than the pros.
For quite some time now, even fashion, as well as music, began to take the path of cooperation with third world countries. 

Edun, founded by Ali Hewson and Bono, and with the artistic direction of Sharon Wauchob, is perhaps one of the brands with the greatest influence in this direction.

The relationship the brand has with Africa is of vital importance; the brand supports plantations of cotton and the manufacture of textiles, in fact it renewed again this year the collaboration with Crochet Sisters.

Wait.

Who are they? 
The company of the Crochet Sisters was born only as a community of women self-sufficient fostered by Nairobi's church; and what makes them indispensable to Edun is not only, and above all their ability, but also the amount of materials and typical fabrics, which they have, and which are able to get in their lands.  
This is the key, that makes the outfit even more unique.

And sorry if it is not enough.

Coming then to the collection, what would you expect then?

I bet something deep and full of ethnic beads.

But no.

What is interesting and fascinating is the concept behind the whole collection.

There is a complete revision of the African theme, and the safari.

What does make this country unique ,if not its landscapes and its nature?

 No coincidence that one of the strengths of the collection are the prints (in application e in  fake-planted), printed on dresses that recall everything but the Africa.

 But that's the beauty, the power of the images  inspires us, and we immediately conveys an abstract and modern idea of ​​ethnicity.

The cut of the pieces is completely contemporary, and in some cases almost minimal in the forms.

For what it concerned the fabric, we must not forget that in addition to the strength of prints, must be added the craftsmanship itself, and as I mentioned before the Crochet Sister gave a touch of originality to the collection.

So, our vision starts with simple materials, such as cotton and wool, up to more elaborate ones, like knitting and crocheting, and even some special processes with the  pigment itself on the jersey.

It has been a  while that began to turn around an idea in mind, and I think that at the end of all it has some truth.

The fabric is the basis of clothing, for quite some time now it looked like it had been neglected, but in this last years it seems that the mentality is completely revolutionizing itself, fortunately.

The quality always comes first. As in this case.

Otherwise, based on what dowe choose what to buy, if not on this one?

GS

Photo Courtesy: Karla Otto

The Atemporal Prom. Dsquared2 Fall Winter 2012 2013

It was only a matter of time before I arrived there.
but finally here we are. 

Dsquared2.
Which has always been the theme, or rather, the dream of, more or less, every girl in high school?

The Prom, the dance, whatever you want to call it.
The prom, the one we see in any TV shows or movies, since we were kids.

 Every girl looks forward to that moment, the moment when the boy of her dreams  asks

to escort her.

In this collection, it seems that the duo-twins designers, Dean and Dan,  have made ​​a journey through various high schools and dances, both temporal and historical trips.

 It is pretty impossible to give a definition or merely define the style of the collection, there are pieces that refer to the 50s, as the sunglasses, others to the 60s, and others, such as corduroy and yellow and green crocodile jackets, to the 60-70s's Beatles.

For what it concerned the garments, the craftsmanship is always incredible, made ​​in Italy is still the best. When I went to the press day and I touched those magnificent classic cut crocodile jackets, I initially wondered: 

Are those real or  it's just simple plastic? 

But after a closer inspection, I could see every tiny fabric process.
Ok, 

maybe I spoke a little too much about fabrics in the last posts, but I'm so fascinated by that.

It is the only way to understand  if what we are considering to buy it is really worth it 

or not.

And in this case It is worth it.

GS

Credits: Gabriele Semeraro

From Sardinia With Love. Antonio Marras Fall Winter 2012 2013

It is no coincidence that the native places are always a source of inspiration, or the distinctive feature of someone.

 His origins are a fundamental part for a designer, in this case, Antonio Marras, seems to have borrowed heavily, not only from his own experiences and studies ( Kenzo), but also and above all on his motherland, Sardinia. 

Tradition is what characterizes him and that he reinterprets in a contemporary full.take for example the many brocades in the collection, combined with raglas-sleevcoats or capes, or half round neck waist coats, cut flowers and decorations remind me of clothes and Sunday clothes Sant' Efisio in Cagliari or the Feast of the Redeemer in Nuoro, or the Ride in Sassari, the latter just mentioned would associate the macramé and lace top, typical of Sardinian women.
If I look at the photographs I can also imagine the costumes and even the manufacture of textiles and prints.
This kind of juxtaposition of  purely minimal outfits, as the black and clean capes, and rich  and thick worked brocades, almost gives the idea of a patchwork completely revised.

Doesn't It?

Even with one of the last pictures, the trench coat with fur cuffs and a superposition of multiple layers on the front bodice, each with a different tissue, the idea of patchwork becomes even more evident.
In conclusion, what can we say, we have the prints, both in application and incorrosion on dresses and jackets; we have brocades, on velvet and not; we have fur and various other types of fabrics. 

What does unite them all ?

Which is the fundamental concept?
Sardinia.

 Tradition.

GS

Photo Credits: Gabriele Semeraro

The Lindt's Aspect. Iceberg Fall Winter 2012 2013

So, I'd start by clarifying something.

Sometimes it happens that we look at something in a hurry so we do not care, but then we realize that we must stop and observe it with our eyes before making a hasty judgment. 

This same thing happened to me with few things, and one of them is the Italian brand Iceberg. 

If I think of some time ago, I must say that it has been a sort of ascending climax in the company, growth and maturity that involves not only the dress itself, but the general concept too. 

For the new collection is all about the figure and the construction of the coat: 

lowered fur sleeves - double breasted coat with a ( this is the Detail, with capital letter) rectangle with the four buttons closure. 

We can also find this detail on raglan sleeve coats and capes with hoods. 

But there's more. 

This voluminous construction, which seems like, and is thus, protect something in its interior. 

How? Only with the volume of the structure?

NO.

The highlight of the collection is texture, texture, the fabric itself, and seems to have been done a thorough analysis of fiber: we pass through fur, wool and sheep skin. 

Regarding the fur is not as we usually expect it: the detail impressed above, through the colors blue, white, black, reminds something vaguely tribal. 

So right now we have arrived at a conception of urban / tribal. 

This strong external construction, as I said before, it will protect something or not? 

YES.

Inside there is a Lindt softness-ish. and obviously you will ask me ,what does it mean? 

As for the exterior part, it was made a search of materials for rigid texture, as well as for the interior, the research is based on the opposite. 

 The softness. 

Silks and double crepe, with sequined details that are also outside on the back of the jackets.

 Here we return to the topic / trend of the shoulders! the circle is closed.

Was I right or not?

So the final concept of the season, in addition to the sporty aspect,

is the Lindt's chocolate aspect.

Outside the rigid textures like a shell of chocolate outer,

and inside the delicate aspect of the silk, as soft as the yummy interior part.

GS

Credits: Gabriele Semeraro

Journey to the Center of The Fabric. Ratti Group Como

Established in 1945 by Antonio Ratti,

 The Ratti Group, since then, has always been one of the poles of reference with regard to silk production, tie, and print  for clients such as Salvatore Ferragamo, Gucci, Zara, Prada etc..

It is fascinating, being able to observe more closely, what we usually do not consider as a whole, or from his birth / production.Now we consider a top from Zara, I saw the other day.

 A simple dark blue top. 

What does a normal person usually do?

 He/She sees a simple dark blue top  with a butterfly print. 

No.

 The fabric, in addition to being a silk chiffon, and to have a printing application (if you've forgotten what it means go to the previous post ) butterflies, (I recognized it immediately as I had already seen somewhere) was produced at Ratti Group's factory.

A Tissue, If printed in application / or corrosion, once washed, must be vaporized and then there must be applied to an operation called "finishing", necessary to improve the qualities of the fabric. 

All these operations are performed, including the production of fabric, and I would like to emphasize the "production" word, at Ratti's.It is also interesting to note the quality of work performed during the complete production process.Although the 60-70% of the thread of the fabric is imported from China, most of the processing is completely produced within the plant: from spinning, by the creation of the drawings imported on the screen, until the actual printing.One of the most incredible place, was the "color kitchen", where the recipe of the shade chosen, runs; and another, and perhaps my favorite,  was the archive. 

Corridors and corridors, yards and yards of fabrics all gathered in one single room.The history of the fabric is not possible to know through the museums, as there is only a small amount;
but in manufacturing plants, where we not only have the fabrics produced for the brand for that year, but we can touch fabrics 

of years and years ago.

GS

Credits: Gabriele Semeraro