If we want, we can also consider it as the center of evolution, change and innovation par excellence.
Of course all in a purely positive sense.
Marras first was being watched very closely with the story of the house, the prints were the key and highlight of the brand.
If we think about Kenzo the first thing that comes to mind are the colorful flowers.
After Antonio Marras's era, the brand has completely started a process of tabula rasa or zero-starting point.
Humberto Leon and Carol Lim, from the young Californian brand Opening Ceremony, gave Kenzo a breath of fresh air, and the latest collection has confirmed their ability to give new life and form to a brand, whose roots , we thought, were already established.
In the last collection, everything revolves around the fabric: knitwear, fake knitwear, Juan Gatti-ish prints, tweed; and also around how to apply them to the clothes: tweed sweaters, knitted raglan sleeves on double breasted high-belted-or-not coats, taffeta stretch for male-ish suits , high-waisted trousers with flared, silk crepe suits, and black and white fringed skirts.
So thorough a study of the fabric and the cuts, but also a great design for outerwear, I vaguely remember Gilles Rosier's fall winter 2001 collection, in particular a leather jacket with big lapels.
The study of the history of the house, the study of tissues and how to apply them, the cuts and innovative designs, development and re-interpretation.
I must say that, a 360 degrees collection.
Credits: Gabriele Semeraro