There are three types of printing: application, conversion, digital.
Photo Credits: Marcio Madeira
The first one is the simple application, through the use of the screen and/or cylinder; the second is the removal of color based on an already colored fabric (for example if I have a fabric dyed entirely red, and I want white filaments, I take off the red to reach the white, and if it want them blue, I take off the red to get to the white basis, and then dye it blue)
It is not difficult.
I swear that if you re-read it right, you understand it.
And now the digital printing, simple mechanical printing on fabric.
But you will ask me: how to distinguish them ? It is very simple.
Just look at the back of the fabric.
In the first type it differs from the front of the fabric, and it means that the color has not passed the tissue; and the second, the corrosion, is equal on both sides; in the third type of printing, instead, however, the reverse is completely devoid of color, which means that the press has not passed the tissue at all.
So, after all these changes, reversals and prints. Why do I write all this?
Well there's a reason, isn't there?
Mary Katrantzou has become what she is, a monstrously talented designer, thanks to her digital prints on fabric.
Well there's a reason, isn't there?
Mary Katrantzou has become what she is, a monstrously talented designer, thanks to her digital prints on fabric.
One of her first shows was the Fall-Winter 2009, I guess, where the inspiration was drawn from jewellery, and I would say, glass, especially from perfume bottles.
But it was not this one to give the impetus to start. In my humble opinion it was the Spring 2011, where printed images of stylish interiors of houses, strong contrasts of complementary colors, have set up this new designer.
Before describing the new collection, I'd like to add one more thing, almost ironic, that I liked in the collection I above mentioned .
Usually the breast of women is called popularly, the "balcony", not coincidentally one of the outfits has a balcony printing with a landscape background of a city.
Terrific!
Let's come now to the new collection, the title is Guillaume Apollinaire's quote:
Usually the breast of women is called popularly, the "balcony", not coincidentally one of the outfits has a balcony printing with a landscape background of a city.
Terrific!
Let's come now to the new collection, the title is Guillaume Apollinaire's quote:
Colour is the fruit of life.
And indeed it is in this collection!
Our daily life is made up of several simple but different moments repeating day after day, almost without any interruption.
Mary seems to be inspired by everyday's objects, such as, a spoon, a hanger, a hedge, a typewriter, a chess piece, and a pencil.
One of these, for example the chess piece, in particular the horse, is exactly placed over the breast of a light blue dress composed of an upper part of a raglan sleeve-high collar- shirt made with a heavier fabric.
As regards the pencil, the interpretation has been phenomenal.
Peplum dress. The color of a classic pencil: yellow, pink, black. The contrasts of blue and brown.
The pencil in this case has been positioned for long in the lower part of the garment, in order to make the peplum look no longer the same, but consisting of two parts, a top and a mini skirt, that, with this kind of print, seems even pleated.
In conclusion, although Kandinsky said that "objects damage pictures" in this case, I would say he was pretty wrong.
The object is the central key of the collection, such as the Olivetti-ish typewriter on the faux-jacquard red dress.
Each object has its own meaning, it must not be conceived separately from the clothes,
it has to be analyzed in its whole.
Each object has its own meaning, it must not be conceived separately from the clothes,
it has to be analyzed in its whole.
"There is only one road to follow, that of analysis of the basic elements in order to arrive ultimately at an adequate graphic expression." - W. Kandinsky
GS
Photo Credits: Marcio Madeira









