1.4.12

Diana Vreeland and The Raise of Woman Society. Venice, Palazzo Fortuny Exhibition

We always talk about Vogue, Vogue Vogue.
 Harper's Bazaar, Harper's bazaar, Harper's bazaar. Anna Wintour, Anna Wintour, Anna Wintour.
But at least, do we know who brought up the name of these magazines?One of the most important, influential and inspiring figures of the 20 century has been and still is, Diana Vreeland.
Began working as a columnist for Bazaar in 1937, discovered "To Have To Have not", "Designing Woman" and "The Mirror Has Two Faces."'s Lauren Bacall.What most characterized her was not her position, ok, her position was one of the most sought after, but also her own way of being was remarkable.

One of the quotations that best describes her character is: What do I think about the way most people dress? Most people are not something one thinks about. With only this sentence we can well understand how the judgment, which today is a source of maximum negativity, could be fatal. Nothing. What people thought, did not stop her. She went on her way.

Judith Clark, Reader at The London College of Fashion, and Maria Luisa Frisa, Professor at the IUAV University, organized, perhaps the best collection of iconic dresses, or rather, representative of one of the most important figures in fashion.what most historic  fashion place to organize this exhibition, but the Palazzo Fortuny in Venice?
At the first floor of the building, we first impact a collection of dresses, including a dark (i don't remember if blue or black because the light was weak) jacket with gold-rich spanish-ish Embroideries. Balenciaga.I'd say that he was one of her favorites, or perhaps even her favorite, judging by the large amount of clothes of the same, in the exhibition.
A really funny thing was a closet a couple of meters long, aligned on the same shelf with so many shoes of Ms. Vreeland.At least for me it was pretty, then everyone has their own tastes!
The second floor , the exhibition begins properly. and you will say: 
But how? was not already started?
 No. 
It was just a preview. Wise move, Ms Frisa and Ms Clark.
As you enter the room there is a sort of costume gallery. 
Dresses from the early twentieth century, until practically the end of the next century or less.
A yellow-ish glitter-allover covered Paco Rabanne's dresses. Late sixties. A Ysl's Sarafan outfit, burgundy brocade and dark gray sequins;  few , legendary, Mariano Fortuny's Delphos dresses, covered with a, dare I say, Elsa Schiaparelli's silk short cut sleeves jackets; a floral-jacquard tunic worn by Maria Callas in one of his own works. And many others.
Ok, i know, describing an exhibiton is not always that easy also because if one does not participate directly can not appreciate properly its beauty, and therefore receives only what pleases the writer, but believe me when I tell you that it's worth it.
From some time now, I have this idea that the woman is about to return to her own glory. 
Just watch what happens in today's society, politics, fashion, art, every part of our society. 
Until now the woman figure has been too underrated. Then it is time to raise the white flag and admit women have their own merits and it is our duty now to admit it.

GS










Credits: Gabriele Semeraro