19.3.12

The Society Trend Rochas Fall Winter 2012 2013


We start talking about Rochas through two main points: ceramics and music.
Why the pottery?
Wilhelm Kage (1889-1960) was one of the greatest designers of Swedish ceramics, some of his most famous creations was the Argentea, Surrea, and FarstaIn this case the last named series are those that we take into account.
Farsta vessels are a collection, I would say, ethnic-ish, vessels that leads to a primitive conception of the term, however, to mean primitive (also considering the origin of the designer Kage), handcrafted primitive, with obvious references to the Nordic tradition.And you will ask me, where are these Nordic calls?
Hand line incised decoration to body, woodworking and the various cuts.Not to forget the use of colors: blue, light blue, yellow, tan and dark brown. But what illustrates more clearly the inspiration of Marco Zanini for the prints of this season, are the vases with impressed crosshatch pattern in the panels to front and back, yellow ocher and charcoal gray matte glaze.
In this print collection of antiquities is adjacent to the cutting heads rather contemporary and modern, and fairly simple forms.This simplicity has been designed on cocktail dresses with boat necklines, typical of the sixties, and with various constructions of the shoulders curled in creating a Raglan effect; the big double breasted 3 buttons up coats with slightly dropped shoulders. The shoulder characteristic is quite common this season, and still manages to give that extra touch of sportiness that serves to strengthen the collection, in addition to the 1960s, I dare say that the designer has tried, successfully, to add not only by leaders cutting and 70s prints (prints and flared trousers Kage), but also shapes and silhouettes that resemble those of 40 years, with a high waist belts and under-the-knee-skirts. 
40s, 60s and 70s.

The second point I mentioned is the music.
Irony is perhaps the right word.
The soundtrack of the show was a remix of "Noi Siam Zingarelle" from the Giuseppe Verdi's La Traviata (1854). The lyrics of that song say: 

Venute da lontano;
D'ognuno sulla mano
Leggiamo l'avvenir.
Se consultiam le stelle
Null'avvi a noi d'oscuro,
E i casi del futuro
Possiamo altrui predir.

We are, therefore, faced with one of the few cases of fashion, where society and everyday life is analyzed and interpreted from top to bottom?
The economic crisis has hit all over the world, more or less, in each case has affected everyone.
Marco this season has decided to make fun, or rather to make his own this current topic.
 In what way?
Rochas, as old fashion house, has always had an image of elegance and always has to be respected, and this season it has reaffirmed the concept by taking a different path: the economic crisis.
The outfits are literally simple, suitable for every type of woman. Poverty-simplicity filtered and redesigned by a fashion house where the price is not exactly affordable, but the key concept is easily percebile.The crisis is there and must be combated, jeer, kill it.

Women can do it.

GS














Photo Credits: Rochas and Gabriele Semeraro