20.5.11
Carven's 007
Autumn Winter 2011/12: new collections, new trends, from Hermés's falconers, Miu Miu's Mildred Pierces, to the militant Carven woman, whose wardrobe colours and materials are influenced by military intelligence. Khaki, beige and taupe predominate on heavy wool-look fabrics that are both functional and sturdy.We can say a totally 40's, strong and fierce woman. All the collection is basically structured around shoulders, waists, and typical longuette skirts.
The pleated collars, that reminds to Queen Elizabeth's collar, are like a touch of fun on more aggressive silhouettes. Real or fake fur adds a touch of urban camouflage as does lace, which has emerged as day wear.There is a uniform aesthetic for models inspired by campus style: mini duffle-coats, studenty Bermuda shorts and puffy velvet skirts. In the evening beautiful draped dress, that let the body be itself.
There's a new 007 in town this winter :CARVEN. Elegant,strong, powerful, and above all regal.
HELMUT NEWTON
POLAROIDS
OPENING 9 JUNE 2011 AT 8 PM
Polaroid technology revolutionized photography. In nearly all photographic areas – from landscape and genre, portrait and self-portrait, fashion and nudes – this unique imaging process has found enthusiastic devotees all over the world.
Helmut Newton used the technology intensively starting in the 1970s, especially for his fashion photo shoots. As he once described in an interview, this satisfied his impatient urge to want to know immediately how a certain situation would look as a photograph. In this context, the Polaroid acted as an idea sketch in addition to testing the actual lighting situation and image composition.Newton’s additional notes, written on the edges of the Polaroids, are fascinating as well as revealing with regard to the model, client or location and date.The comments, the haziness of the images and the signs of use are naturally also to be found on the enlargements of the Polaroids included in the exhibition; they testify to a pragmatic approach to the original work materials, which have now possess an own inherent value.
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| Helmut Newton, Thierry Mugler, Polaroid, Monte Carlo 1998 |
For the first time ever, over 300 works based on the original Polaroids offer a comprehensive overview of this aspect of Newton’s oeuvre.The exhibition is thus a look into the sketchbook of one of the most influential photographers of the 20th century.
19.5.11
SCHIZOPHRENIC-MANIA
Behati Prinsloo by Matt Jones for i-D Summer 2011, that really makes my day...in this period i feel so completely anxious and stressed, but sometimes so happy...what's happening? just hope it is the change of season. FINGERS CROSSED
Gabe
18.5.11
14.5.11
The Cornfield From Chloe To Rodarte
In 2009 Chloe's Hannah Mcgibbon creates for the fall collection a soft version of the early eighties, all big blanket coats, high-waisted fluid pants, wrapped belts, but what about the AD campaign? Beautiful Karlie,Sigrid and Kasia all clothed with something that remind to a beautiful walk in a cornfield, with the wind blowing through their hair.
This kind of inspiration also takes Rodarte's Kate and Laura Mulleavy but always in a different way: “It was based on the Great American Plains, on Days of Heaven,” as you can see from their own Moodboard.The Mulleavys (Hamish Bowles wrote) wanted their collection to reflect “a study of natural light in that landscape—telling a story of the sun rising and setting, from dawn to dusk….”
That changing light on a field of corn was literally referenced in a grouping of beautiful draped chiffon evening gowns with skyscapes of cerulean blue or stormy grays suggested in the dappled painterly fabric, and ears of wheat printed at their hems. The draped necklines of these dresses caught the breeze in movement, like puffs of cumuli. 
13.5.11
Madame Grès is Back But In Tom Ford's SS 2011 Vision
After a glorious return at The Musée Bourdelle, Madame Grès is finally back on the wave.
Emilie designed women's clothes as unique works of art: she sculpted the fabric directly on the body of the models. Her name rapidly became synonymous with masterly cutting on the biais: flowing draped jersey dresses, alluring silk chiffon dresses for the evening. Her inventions were many and varied, and all bear the unmistakeable imprint of "Haute Couture".
Her power was untamable until a Spring 2011 collection: Mr Ford infact translates her own fashionable vision in something totally different, between modern but at the same time elegant and classic.
11.5.11
10.5.11
Who's Your Favourite Icon of The 50-60-70's?
Write in a comment the name of Your Icon/Icons!
Thanks!!
6.5.11
4.5.11
News from Pitti's Guests: Band Of Outsiders - Rodarte
Pitti Immagine, the organization that presents the seasonal Pitti Uomo and Pitti W fairs in Florence, convened a group of editors and buyers in Soho today to announce the specifics of this summer’s edition of the fair, which will include, for the first time, a new online component, called ePitti. Several brands will celebrate anniversaries and new debuts at the fair, including the Italian label Lubiam (which will mark its centennial), Pringle of Scotland (which will present a re-edition of iconic archival items, in collaboration with Central Saint Martins), Carhartt, and Victorinox, which will show its Remade in Switzerland collection by English designer Christopher Raeburn.
But exciting the most interest were the fair’s guest designers, both in from California for the occasion. Scott Sternberg will be the guest at Pitti Uomo, where he’ll show Band of Outsiders’ Spring ‘12 menswear collection, as well as the Resort ‘12 women’s collections by Boy and Girl. “We’re showing at a venue called Manifattura Tabacchi. It’s an old, abandoned tobacco factory,” he revealed. “It’s amazing. It’s huge; it feels kind of like this mini city when you’re in there.” Details were few but he did explain that all three lines will be shown together, as with his Fall ‘11 runway show. “We’re always telling a story, and there are usually acts that happen in that story,” he said, “so it’ll all be in the same show, but clearly delineated, one from the next.” Given the parallel to Fall, we had to ask: Would there be looks parachuting in from above? “There will be no rappellers, there will be no one falling from the ceiling,” he promised. He promised this, too: The men’s show won’t appear again in New York in September. “Absolutely not,” he said. “This is your one chance to see Band Spring ‘12.”
Kate and Laura Mulleavy were similarly tight-lipped about specifics but did profess a great love for the city of Florence. “There are very few places that you feel are these artistic centers—Florence and Kyoto are the two that really come to your mind,” Kate said. “It’s just unparalleled, the amount of creativity and art that exists in a place like Florence. It’s almost indescribable…It’s also about a connection to a place. A lot of what you’re seeing is frescos, which belong to the environment; you can’t go see a fresco here, you can’t move it. It’s really fascinating. When you talk about Florence, you’re talking about things that you have to be there to see and experience, that are so intertwined in the environment, which has always been an interest for Laura and me in terms of our own design and thought process. Trying to understand the landscape that we live in and that history.”
The collection that they’ll show, they were quick to note, won’t be a traditional pre-collection; it’ll be exclusive to Pitti. That’s not to say it might not one day hit stores. “It can be [sold], yes, to certain stores,” Laura clarified. “We’re figuring out what we want to do to keep it special and do something interesting with it on a retail level.”
—Matthew Schneier
(via style.com)
But exciting the most interest were the fair’s guest designers, both in from California for the occasion. Scott Sternberg will be the guest at Pitti Uomo, where he’ll show Band of Outsiders’ Spring ‘12 menswear collection, as well as the Resort ‘12 women’s collections by Boy and Girl. “We’re showing at a venue called Manifattura Tabacchi. It’s an old, abandoned tobacco factory,” he revealed. “It’s amazing. It’s huge; it feels kind of like this mini city when you’re in there.” Details were few but he did explain that all three lines will be shown together, as with his Fall ‘11 runway show. “We’re always telling a story, and there are usually acts that happen in that story,” he said, “so it’ll all be in the same show, but clearly delineated, one from the next.” Given the parallel to Fall, we had to ask: Would there be looks parachuting in from above? “There will be no rappellers, there will be no one falling from the ceiling,” he promised. He promised this, too: The men’s show won’t appear again in New York in September. “Absolutely not,” he said. “This is your one chance to see Band Spring ‘12.”
Kate and Laura Mulleavy were similarly tight-lipped about specifics but did profess a great love for the city of Florence. “There are very few places that you feel are these artistic centers—Florence and Kyoto are the two that really come to your mind,” Kate said. “It’s just unparalleled, the amount of creativity and art that exists in a place like Florence. It’s almost indescribable…It’s also about a connection to a place. A lot of what you’re seeing is frescos, which belong to the environment; you can’t go see a fresco here, you can’t move it. It’s really fascinating. When you talk about Florence, you’re talking about things that you have to be there to see and experience, that are so intertwined in the environment, which has always been an interest for Laura and me in terms of our own design and thought process. Trying to understand the landscape that we live in and that history.”
The collection that they’ll show, they were quick to note, won’t be a traditional pre-collection; it’ll be exclusive to Pitti. That’s not to say it might not one day hit stores. “It can be [sold], yes, to certain stores,” Laura clarified. “We’re figuring out what we want to do to keep it special and do something interesting with it on a retail level.”
—Matthew Schneier
(via style.com)
3.5.11
2.5.11
Proenza Schouler's Costume Line
COSTUME PARTY: Having just launched a line of small leather goods on their e-commerce site, Proenza Schouler's Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez are working on a costume jewelry line they hope to launch during the upcoming pre-collection season. The design duo, who were on the jury at the Hyères International Festival of Fashion and Photography in the south of France over the weekend, said it would be a season-less, classic line that will be reprised each season in different colors and materials. “It’s nice when you've put so much time into developing a product for it to have a life. So much stuff that we put out there, three months later, it’s gone,” said McCollough. The jewelry line is still in its prototype stage.
via WWD
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